Understanding your hair profile is a key step in knowing how to care for your natural mane. Below, I talk about the key components in a hair profile.

Let’s talk curl pattern/texture

My hair looks different, why? Errm here’s why

So, in the natural hair community, there are sub communities. There are different hair categories. There’s the common kinky and curly category. There can also be the kinky, curly and coily category. There’s the LOIS hair typing, which looks at curl pattern. Then there’s the type 1,2,3,4 category which looks at pattern and texture. It’s pretty important, as it gives you insight on how to care for your specific hair type without getting frustrated. I personally identify with the 1,2,3,4 hair typing. I’ll talk more about that. However, I’ll tell you a bit about all the categories.

KINKY AND CURLY

Kinky hair is more wool like; curly hair has more defined/definite ringlets or patterns.

KINKY, CURLY AND COILY

The new addition- coily hair is basically tightly curled hair. It is used to refer to defined kinky hair. Defined hair simply means hair which is showing its curls.

LOIS

The ‘L’ is for hair with an ‘L’ curl pattern, having bends and right angles.

The ‘O’ is for hair with rolled up strands of several small circles (like the letter ‘O’) resembling a spiral.

The ‘I’ is for hair with strands that have no distinct bends and curves, basically lying flat.

The ‘S’ is for hair with strands that have an ‘S’ shape.

TYPE 1,2,3,4 SYSTEM

This is the typing system I personally identify with. This system is known as the Andre Walker hair typing system.

Type 1 hair is straight hair

Type 2 is wavy hair with sub categories of 2a, 2b, and 2c. With ‘a’ being the loosest texture and ‘b’ and ‘c’ being tighter waves respectively.

Type 3 hair is curly hair and has ‘a’, ‘b’, and ‘c’ as well. 3c isn’t actually part of this system which is the Andre Walker hair typing system; it was however included subsequently. The curl patterns get tighter from ’a’ to ‘c’

Type 4 hair is kinky hair, but has coily hair within its boundaries. This also has ‘a’, ‘b’ and ‘c’.  The curl pattern also gets tighter from ‘a’ to ‘c’. Type 4 hair is the most common in the black hair community. Type 3 hair is common as well, but typically in blacks who are somewhat mixed. Type 4c hair isn’t part of the Andre walker hair typing system as well, but was subsequently added within the natural hair community.

Let’s talk strand thickness

What are your individual strands like?

In this category we have fine, medium and thick/coarse.

Fine strands are thinner and barely visible especially when an individual strand is held up to light.

Medium strands are closer to the size of half a strand of sewing thread and more clearly visible when held up to light.

Thick/coarse strands are about the size a strand of sewing thread; they may be slightly thinner though. It is most visible when held up to light.

Let’s talk density

Don’t all naturals have full hair?

This section relates to volume. How many strands of hair are on your scalp?

Low density hair has fewer strands of hair on the scalp and is sometimes referred to as fine or light hair. This isn’t referring to individual strands.

Medium density hair has more strands on the scalp.

High density hair has a large amount of strands on the scalp. It’s usually referred to as full or thick hair. This isn’t referring to the individual strands.

Keep in mind that products can’t really do anything to change your hair. They can help you maintain your hair’s health, which can lead to growth in thinned out areas or bald spots, depending on how severe the hair loss is.

Let’s talk porosity

I thought only curl pattern mattered

Porosity refers to your hair’s ability to absorb and hold moisture; it affects how products work on your hair. There’s low, medium/normal and high porosity.

• Low porosity hair has tight cuticles which overlap each other. Your cuticles are the outer layer of your hair which control the entry/exit of substances into/out of your hair shaft. Since low porosity hair has really tight cuticles, it means it’s pretty hard for moisture, products and treatments to penetrate your hair strands. It also means it’s hard for moisture, products and treatments to leave your hair as well. Once moisture and et cetera get in, they stay in. Low porosity hair is prone to build up from protein rich products and heavy products in general. Lighter products are better for low porosity hair. Protein should be used occasionally. Low porosity will need indirect heat for better penetration of substances.

• Medium porosity hair allows enough moisture to get in hair strands and prevents too much from escaping. Medium porosity hair benefits from occasional protein as well.

• High porosity hair has loose, rough cuticles. Moisture, products and products can get in just as easily as they escape. High porosity hair needs thick leave-in conditioners, moisturizers and heavy sealants to help keep in moisture. Care has to be taken to prevent high porosity hair from taking in too much moisture which can lead to damage. The climate and activities such as bathing and swimming have to be watched to prevent excess moisture from going in and damaging hair. High porosity in hair is usually as a result of damage from relaxing, heat and rough detangling. However, some naturals have high porosity hair by default. Protein treatments are really beneficial for high porosity hair.

The above areas make up a hair profile, so there you have it.

                                                                                                                              Warm Wishes,

                                                                                                                                   Eno.